Repair in London

[Isroslav]

I serviced my B250e and I'm happy. They dried it out, replaced the bearings, checked everything, replaced the seal and much more. If you need help with repairs, write me a private message! In london

 

[tankmania]

I serviced my B250e and I'm happy. They dried it out, replaced the bearings, checked everything, replaced the seal and much more. If you need help with repairs, write me a private message! In london

I would remove the coolant manifold, chop off the rotor coolant tube as it's not needed, grind the rest of the tube down to the base and fit a cap with sealant. The coolant would still flow under the cap via it's normal circuit. No more coolant leak worries.

 

[Isroslav]

If you say so, then you do not understand the principle of operation of the cooling system in this engine...

 

[asavage]

What tankmania described is more of less what I did last Spring, and what a lot of LDU owners are doing. You lose rotor cooling but retain flyover tube coolant flow, as well as stator & inverter flow. I had a slug of alum. machined for a cap, but there's an inexpensive stamped SS sheet metal cap available nowadays.

As Tesla gave up on trying to make the rotor seal work on their Reman units, this doesn't seem particularly dangerous: eliminating rotor cooling.

 

[Isroslav]

See for yourself, as it is more convenient for you. But still do not worry. Our service in London is engaged in rewinding the stator winding, it will be completely new with factory characteristics.

 

[tankmania]

What tankmania described is more of less what I did last Spring, and what a lot of LDU owners are doing. You lose rotor cooling but retain flyover tube coolant flow, as well as stator & inverter flow. I had a slug of alum. machined for a cap, but there's an inexpensive stamped SS sheet metal cap available nowadays.

As Tesla gave up on trying to make the rotor seal work on their Reman units, this doesn't seem particularly dangerous: eliminating rotor cooling.

You have shared very detailed and comprehensive posts on various options explored by many in different forums. No doubt it took you a lot of time to document along with many photo's, all to benefit many. Thank you for sharing, I appreciate it

 

[Mikkel Vitus Nielsen]

If you say so, then you do not understand the principle of operation of the cooling system in this engine...

Isroslav - Well what is described regarding the "Coolant delete" operation, with modification of the coolant manifold - that is what Tesla is doing when delivering refurbished engines, and have done for a while.
They realized that they could never get a proper seal, and therefore made a bypass for the coolant.

 

[Isroslav]

I don't understand why, if you can install a new modified one, get good cooling, and also make drainage. P.S. You can shut off any cooling point, the engine, the battery, and the inverter, but this is not the right way...

 

[LondonWdd14289ownwr]

I would remove the coolant manifold, chop off the rotor coolant tube as it's not needed, grind the rest of the tube down to the base and fit a cap with sealant. The coolant would still flow under the cap via it's normal circuit. No more coolant leak worries.

I wouldn't do this, I know lots of people do this ,commonly known as coolant delete. Buy there a few reports that the bearing get hotter ( can't remember which beating) . So the best way is to put a bearther valve on the hole behind the speed sensor and adding two drain holes , on on the coolant manifold and the other at the bottom of the inverter casing .

 

[LondonWdd14289ownwr]

I serviced my B250e and I'm happy. They dried it out, replaced the bearings, checked everything, replaced the seal and much more. If you need help with repairs, write me a private message! In london

Which part of London are you in?

 

[Isroslav]

I wouldn't do this, I know lots of people do this ,commonly known as coolant delete. Buy there a few reports that the bearing get hotter ( can't remember which beating) . So the best way is to put a bearther valve on the hole behind the speed sensor and adding two drain holes , on on the coolant manifold and the other at the bottom of the inverter casing .

It is better to make one hole near the sensor and install a valve on the inverter side. If there is a hole there, then due to the difference in temperatures, there will be moisture condensation and there will be a risk of getting moisture from a puddle... a special valve is needed.

 

[Isroslav]

Which part of London are you in?

N18 3BD

 

[Jaywlker]

I would remove the coolant manifold, chop off the rotor coolant tube as it's not needed, grind the rest of the tube down to the base and fit a cap with sealant. The coolant would still flow under the cap via it's normal circuit. No more coolant leak worries.

I have done the coolant delete and live in Scottsdale, Arizona, where temps routinely get over 120 degrees f / 48.9 degrees c. In fact, last summer we had a record number of days 120 or hotter. It was miserable.

But my 250e with the coolant rotor delete doesn’t seem to mind and I don’t need to worry about the motor binding up from corrosion due to faulty gaskets that are a known issue / longevity problem.

Cheers, all! Happy motoring!!

 

[asavage]

I installed a crude indirect IR monitor of the rotor on my dry rotor LDU last year, and have never seen >230°F

https://www.myrav4ev.com/threads/ldu-rotor-temperature-monitor.2641/



I assume our vehicles are both lighter and power-limited compared to the Model S for which the LDUs were designed, and that rotor overheating is more likely to be a problem for the Performance versions in the Model S which are pushed hard.

 

[tankmania]

I have done the coolant delete and live in Scottsdale, Arizona, where temps routinely get over 120 degrees f / 48.9 degrees c. In fact, last summer we had a record number of days 120 or hotter. It was miserable.

But my 250e with the coolant rotor delete doesn’t seem to mind and I don’t need to worry about the motor binding up from corrosion due to faulty gaskets that are a known issue / longevity problem.

Cheers, all! Happy motoring!!

Good to hear. Exactly what I have been reading of other examples where the rotor cooling is not required. People have fixed temp sensors to monitor.

I could be wrong but do you know if did Tesla got rid of the rotor cooling in later models? I may have read about it or am getting confused with owner's saying it doesn't need rotor cooling.

 

[Jaywlker]

Good to hear. Exactly what I have been reading of other examples where the rotor cooling is not required. People have fixed temp sensors to monitor.

I could be wrong but do you know if did Tesla got rid of the rotor cooling in later models? I may have read about it or am getting confused with owner's saying it doesn't need rotor cooling.

My understanding is that Tesla is fixing the issue by going with the coolant delete. But that they’ve moved on to different style motors for new cars that are supposedly rated for something like 1,000,000 miles.

 

[asavage]

I could be wrong but do you know if did Tesla got rid of the rotor cooling in later models? I may have read about it or am getting confused with owner's saying it doesn't need rotor cooling.

The first picture I know of, of Tesla installing a coolant delete manifold on a Reman LDU, was posted Nov2023; my reference is here:
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/diy-tesla-drive-unit-repair.274163/page-5#post-7898613

I don't follow Tesla threads much, as there's a lot of volume (and noise), so there may be better/more accurate info floating around, but that post specifically was the reason I pursued my path.

---

The "good for 1M miles" stuff was an Elon quote around the original M3 launch, but I'm sure it's been repurposed for other marketing goals. We know our early drive units were extremely problematic (failed Aegis ring for rotor grounding; early rotor bearings failures; pinion bearing failures; rotor seal leaks; HV cable gland corrosion; data connector leak/corrosion; PCB cracks; etc.) and I surely would expect later drive units to improve, but . . . it's all marketing until the data is in.

 

[tankmania]

I installed a crude indirect IR monitor of the rotor on my dry rotor LDU last year, and have never seen >230°F

https://www.myrav4ev.com/threads/ldu-rotor-temperature-monitor.2641/

View attachment 87

I assume our vehicles are both lighter and power-limited compared to the Model S for which the LDUs were designed, and that rotor overheating is more likely to be a problem for the Performance versions in the Model S which are pushed hard.

I knew I'd read, about it somewhere! Great idea