Repair in London

B-Class Electric Drive Forum

Help Support B-Class Electric Drive Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Isroslav

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2024
Messages
7
Location
London
I serviced my B250e and I'm happy. They dried it out, replaced the bearings, checked everything, replaced the seal and much more. If you need help with repairs, write me a private message! In london
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6308.jpeg
    5 MB
  • IMG_6307.jpeg
    4.1 MB
  • IMG_6305.jpeg
    5.5 MB
  • IMG_6306.jpeg
    4.4 MB
  • IMG_6104.png
    IMG_6104.png
    5.2 MB
  • IMG_6101.png
    IMG_6101.png
    4.5 MB
I serviced my B250e and I'm happy. They dried it out, replaced the bearings, checked everything, replaced the seal and much more. If you need help with repairs, write me a private message! In london
I would remove the coolant manifold, chop off the rotor coolant tube as it's not needed, grind the rest of the tube down to the base and fit a cap with sealant. The coolant would still flow under the cap via it's normal circuit. No more coolant leak worries.
 
What tankmania described is more of less what I did last Spring, and what a lot of LDU owners are doing. You lose rotor cooling but retain flyover tube coolant flow, as well as stator & inverter flow. I had a slug of alum. machined for a cap, but there's an inexpensive stamped SS sheet metal cap available nowadays.

As Tesla gave up on trying to make the rotor seal work on their Reman units, this doesn't seem particularly dangerous: eliminating rotor cooling.
 
See for yourself, as it is more convenient for you. But still do not worry. Our service in London is engaged in rewinding the stator winding, it will be completely new with factory characteristics.
 
What tankmania described is more of less what I did last Spring, and what a lot of LDU owners are doing. You lose rotor cooling but retain flyover tube coolant flow, as well as stator & inverter flow. I had a slug of alum. machined for a cap, but there's an inexpensive stamped SS sheet metal cap available nowadays.

As Tesla gave up on trying to make the rotor seal work on their Reman units, this doesn't seem particularly dangerous: eliminating rotor cooling.
You have shared very detailed and comprehensive posts on various options explored by many in different forums. No doubt it took you a lot of time to document along with many photo's, all to benefit many. Thank you for sharing, I appreciate it 👌🏼👍
 
If you say so, then you do not understand the principle of operation of the cooling system in this engine...
Isroslav - Well what is described regarding the "Coolant delete" operation, with modification of the coolant manifold - that is what Tesla is doing when delivering refurbished engines, and have done for a while.
They realized that they could never get a proper seal, and therefore made a bypass for the coolant.
 
I don't understand why, if you can install a new modified one, get good cooling, and also make drainage. P.S. You can shut off any cooling point, the engine, the battery, and the inverter, but this is not the right way...
 
I would remove the coolant manifold, chop off the rotor coolant tube as it's not needed, grind the rest of the tube down to the base and fit a cap with sealant. The coolant would still flow under the cap via it's normal circuit. No more coolant leak worries.
I wouldn't do this, I know lots of people do this ,commonly known as coolant delete. Buy there a few reports that the bearing get hotter ( can't remember which beating) . So the best way is to put a bearther valve on the hole behind the speed sensor and adding two drain holes , on on the coolant manifold and the other at the bottom of the inverter casing .
 
I wouldn't do this, I know lots of people do this ,commonly known as coolant delete. Buy there a few reports that the bearing get hotter ( can't remember which beating) . So the best way is to put a bearther valve on the hole behind the speed sensor and adding two drain holes , on on the coolant manifold and the other at the bottom of the inverter casing .
It is better to make one hole near the sensor and install a valve on the inverter side. If there is a hole there, then due to the difference in temperatures, there will be moisture condensation and there will be a risk of getting moisture from a puddle... a special valve is needed.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top