I serviced my B250e and I'm happy. They dried it out, replaced the bearings, checked everything, replaced the seal and much more. If you need help with repairs, write me a private message! In london
I would remove the coolant manifold, chop off the rotor coolant tube as it's not needed, grind the rest of the tube down to the base and fit a cap with sealant. The coolant would still flow under the cap via it's normal circuit. No more coolant leak worries.I serviced my B250e and I'm happy. They dried it out, replaced the bearings, checked everything, replaced the seal and much more. If you need help with repairs, write me a private message! In london
You have shared very detailed and comprehensive posts on various options explored by many in different forums. No doubt it took you a lot of time to document along with many photo's, all to benefit many. Thank you for sharing, I appreciate itWhat tankmania described is more of less what I did last Spring, and what a lot of LDU owners are doing. You lose rotor cooling but retain flyover tube coolant flow, as well as stator & inverter flow. I had a slug of alum. machined for a cap, but there's an inexpensive stamped SS sheet metal cap available nowadays.
As Tesla gave up on trying to make the rotor seal work on their Reman units, this doesn't seem particularly dangerous: eliminating rotor cooling.
Isroslav - Well what is described regarding the "Coolant delete" operation, with modification of the coolant manifold - that is what Tesla is doing when delivering refurbished engines, and have done for a while.If you say so, then you do not understand the principle of operation of the cooling system in this engine...
I wouldn't do this, I know lots of people do this ,commonly known as coolant delete. Buy there a few reports that the bearing get hotter ( can't remember which beating) . So the best way is to put a bearther valve on the hole behind the speed sensor and adding two drain holes , on on the coolant manifold and the other at the bottom of the inverter casing .I would remove the coolant manifold, chop off the rotor coolant tube as it's not needed, grind the rest of the tube down to the base and fit a cap with sealant. The coolant would still flow under the cap via it's normal circuit. No more coolant leak worries.
Which part of London are you in?I serviced my B250e and I'm happy. They dried it out, replaced the bearings, checked everything, replaced the seal and much more. If you need help with repairs, write me a private message! In london
It is better to make one hole near the sensor and install a valve on the inverter side. If there is a hole there, then due to the difference in temperatures, there will be moisture condensation and there will be a risk of getting moisture from a puddle... a special valve is needed.I wouldn't do this, I know lots of people do this ,commonly known as coolant delete. Buy there a few reports that the bearing get hotter ( can't remember which beating) . So the best way is to put a bearther valve on the hole behind the speed sensor and adding two drain holes , on on the coolant manifold and the other at the bottom of the inverter casing .
N18 3BDWhich part of London are you in?
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