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If you are stuck using the 120V L1 charger make sure you switch it to 12A. It defaults to 8A. 12A is 50% faster but it could heat up a worn receptacle. The Lear defaults to a very safe current.I charge at 240V 40A and the only time I used the supplied L1 EVSE was to test it. The car follows the J1772 protocol so on L2 it will charge just fine on a much cheaper 30A EVSE. I started at 30A and upgraded to 40A since my OpenEVSE unit just needed a new cable.ON the Leaf forum they think highly of Clipper Creek EVSEs. If you need UL approval then stay away from the JuiceBox or OpenEVSE units. Me, I could care less.Where I live snow is not allowed! That said cold weather reduces the battery capacity ( under 40 degrees ). On a normal charge at 80% my GOM will say 65 miles. If I reset it it will jump to the mid eighties. The extended charge does not show up on the meter. It just stays at 100% longer. Just pay attention to the charge meter and ignore the GOM.
If you are stuck using the 120V L1 charger make sure you switch it to 12A. It defaults to 8A. 12A is 50% faster but it could heat up a worn receptacle. The Lear defaults to a very safe current.
I charge at 240V 40A and the only time I used the supplied L1 EVSE was to test it. The car follows the J1772 protocol so on L2 it will charge just fine on a much cheaper 30A EVSE. I started at 30A and upgraded to 40A since my OpenEVSE unit just needed a new cable.
ON the Leaf forum they think highly of Clipper Creek EVSEs. If you need UL approval then stay away from the JuiceBox or OpenEVSE units. Me, I could care less.
Where I live snow is not allowed! That said cold weather reduces the battery capacity ( under 40 degrees ). On a normal charge at 80% my GOM will say 65 miles. If I reset it it will jump to the mid eighties. The extended charge does not show up on the meter. It just stays at 100% longer. Just pay attention to the charge meter and ignore the GOM.
